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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.